I am closing out Soup Month (it’s a thing), obviously, with a soup! Today is National Pho Day - and I decided to get in on the Phớ action here at the house. I’ve only had Phớ a couple of times, but this was the first time making it at home. If you’ve never had it, it’s Vietnam’s national dish and the rules are straightforward: flavorful broth, meat (typically beef), rice noodles and some herbs. I went with chicken to lighten up our otherwise heavier meals we’ve been having since it’s been extra cold this winter. Phớ is fairly simple to make and the result is very flavorful, giving you a subtle hint of warm spices and comfort on these long, cold winter nights...and yes, it’s completely normal to ssssllllllurrrrrp this soup up from the bowl into your mouth as loudly as possible. My girls had no idea what was going on as my wife and I started making a racket on the other side of the table. But, once they knew it was acceptable, they got in the action slurping, making a little mess speckling their faces with the yummy broth, and having a grand old time.
Chicken Phớ adapted from Chicken Pho, Charles Phan
The only thing missing from this recipe was a flavorful broth. I added just a touch of spice to really enhance the broth, making this a more multidimensional offering. I also negated the tedious and unnecessary step of noodle pre-soaking. Just be sure to be attentive when you boil the noodles as you don’t want them to overcook and become mushy.
2 unpeeled yellow onions, quartered
Three ½-inch thick slices of ginger, smashed
16 cups of water
3 lbs of chicken bones or wings
~3.5 lb chicken, quartered
Onion, minced
1 tbsp salt
2 tsp sugar
Pinches of cinnamon, ground coriander seed, ground allspice and ground cardamom
¼ cup Asian fish sauce
1 lb rice noodles
1 scallion, thinly sliced
~1 lb mung bean sprouts
½ cup torn fresh basil leaves
2 jalapeños, thinly sliced
Lime wedges
Asian chili-garlic sauce and hoisin sauce
Preheat the oven to 400 degrees and roast the onions and ginger for about 20 minutes, until lightly browned.
Meanwhile, break down your chicken by cutting out the spine (using kitchen shears), and carving the bird into 6 pieces (2 wings, 2 breasts, 2 leg/thigh quarters) and bring the water to a boil, in a very large pot.
When the water comes to the boil, add in 2-3 pounds of chicken wings, the roasted vegetables, and prepared chicken (including the spine and wings), salt and sugar. Return to a boil, then reduce to a simmer until the chicken is cooked, approximately 30 minutes.
When the chicken is cooked, transfer only the butchered chicken pieces to a cutting board, leaving the wings and backbone in the pot.
When the chicken has cooled, remove the meat from the bones and shred, reserving the meat in a container in the refrigerator and adding the skin and bones back into the pot. After 2 hours of simmering, pour the contents of the pot through a fine mesh strainer into a bowl, pressing on the solids. Clean out the pot briefly, then pour the strained broth into the pot, and reduce over high heat. You’ll want about 12 cups of broth at the end.
Meanwhile, after the stock has simmered for about 90 minutes, add in the pinches of spices and bring a pot of salted water to a boil. Cook your noodles until just tender. Drain and hold.
When the stock is reduced, stir in the fish sauce, reserved chicken and reserved noodles, finishing the cooking of the noodles and heating the chicken through, about 3 minutes.
To serve, using tongs, pull noodles from the stock and place in bowls, topping with some sliced scallions. Top the noodles with chicken and ladle the broth into the bowls over everything. Garnish with basil, jalapeños, sprouts, a lime wedge, and another sprinkle of sliced scallion. Place a small dollop of the chili-garlic sauce and drizzle some hoisin over the bowl.
______________________________ Copyright 2022, Brendan McCann, All Rights Reserved.
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