I know we’ve been living in a long Covid winter, but guess what? Fat Tuesday is only 5 days away! Typically, I make some kind of gumbo, or a jambalaya. But this year, I am going to reprise this dish next week, for my girls. I came across this recipe while I read “Notes from a Young Black Chef: a Memoir” a couple of weeks ago. If you’ve not yet seen, this book is my featured Pick of the Month on the blog and is a really great read. I blasted through it in 3 sittings - which is a record for me.
What’s cool about the book is that Chef Kwame Onwuachi’s intriguing story is told, in order, and some relevant dishes that feature prominently in his life (and in the story you read) are provided at the end of the accompanying chapter. I didn’t even know recipes would be included in the book, and they were a pleasant surprise as I came across them. I really enjoy “cookbooks” which are actually life stories, as you get to know the author, their inspiration, and individualism more intimately.
I only became aware of Kwame through watching Top Chef. I never got to go to Shaw Bijou, nor Kith/Kin, before they closed, even though I (used to regularly) work in DC and only live 30 minutes south of the city. I don’t care where his next venture is, I will be there with bells on and an empty stomach. This étoufée follows a chapter in the book telling the tale of how three generations of his family, in one way or another, cycled through Louisiana. While Kwame’s time there was brief and somewhat isolated, like an expedition to the moon, it propelled him rapidly to his calling in life. He struggled to find his footing at the outset, but eventually became a chef and he knew what he was good at and that people absolutely loved his food - including this very dish.
Shrimp Étoufée with Thyme Rice
Grandma Cassie’s Shrimp Étoufée & Thyme-Scented Rice, adapted from
Notes from a Young Black Chef: a Memoir, Kwame Onwuachi
It’s hard to find Shrimp Stock at grocery stores. I’ve seen Seafood Stock which I’m sure would be ok, but I used the shells from the shrimp needed for the recipe and made my own stock, which was really vibrant and more delicious than the boxed stuff. Find my recipe below.
Étoufée
2 lbs fresh shrimp, shelled and deveined (reserve the shells for the stock)
1 qt shrimp stock (see recipe below)
1/2 cup unsalted butter
1/2 cup AP flour
Onion, minced
2 ribs celery, minced
1 large green pepper, minced
5 chopped garlic cloves
1 tbsp Cajun Spice
4 sprigs fresh thyme
1 bay leaf
Rice
2 tbsp butter
1 cup of long-grain white rice
Sprig of thyme
If you’re making the Shrimp Stock (see below), you’ll need to start about an hour before you’re ready to cook the meal.
In a large heavy-bottomed pot, or dutch oven, melt the butter over medium-high heat. Once foaming, add in the flour and reduce the heat to medium-low and whisk to combine to make a paste. Keep wishing the roux for a few minutes, until it turns slightly golden brown.
Add in the vegetables, stirring frequently, but gently, and cook for 6 minutes.
Stir in the Cajun spice and thyme, until fragrant, about a minute.
Whisk the stock into the roux, in thirds. For the first 1 ⅓ cup the roux will seize up, that is to be expected. Don’t freak out, just add another 1 ⅓ cup of your stock.
Once all the stock has been stirred in well, add the bay leaf and simmer the ingredients for 30 minutes.
Meanwhile, prepare the rice by melting the 2 tbsp of butter in a small saucepan over medium-high heat. Stir in the rice until coated with the butter and lightly toasted, about a minute. Then add 1 ⅔ cups of water with a heavy pinch of salt and the thyme. Bring to a boil, cover and reduce the heat to low and cook for 15 minutes. After 15 minutes, turn off the heat and let the pot sit covered, for at least 5 minutes, or until you’re ready to plate.
Once the stock and vegetable roux has simmered for 30 minutes, stir in the shrimp and cook for about 3 minutes. If the shrimp are still translucent, cover the pot and remove it from the heat to gently finish the shrimp for another minute.
Shrimp Stock
Shells and legs from 2 lbs of shrimp
½ onion chopped
Celery stalk, chopped
Carrot, chopped
2 garlic cloves, smashed
1 tsp sea salt
1/2 tsp peppercorns
3 sprigs thyme
2 bay leaves
Place the shells into a large pot and turn the heat to high and toast the shells, stirring occasionally, until they are white and toasted, and the bottom of the pot starts to lightly brown - 3-5 minutes. Stir in the vegetables, sea salt and peppercorns. Then add in 10 cups of water and stir in the thyme and bay leaves.
Bring to a boil and then reduce the heat between medium and medium-low and let it simmer for 45 minutes to an hour until reduced. Skim any foam off the top in the first few minutes of boiling. When done, pour into a large bowl through a fine-mesh sieve. Press down on the vegetables to extract as much liquid as possible, then discard the cooked vegetables.
Set aside 4 cups of stock for the étoufée and reserve any remaining stock for another use.
___________________________________ Copyright 2021, Brendan McCann, All Rights Reserved.
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