Have you ever had pastitsio before? Have you even heard of pastitsio? I had not until about 7 or 8 yrs ago, but had also never made it myself until recently. My boss is Greek and would tell me all about it and I’d have some from the local Greek deli on occasion. It’s similar to Italy’s baked ziti, but definitely it’s own thing, and as my boss would probably contend: “better than baked ziti.” He says that about everything that’s Greek, except for maybe the tax and bureaucratic government systems.
I decided to give pastitsio a try on my own after the Super Bowl when I had made Cincinnati Chili. Much like when my boss does something wrong and his mother calls him, I got a call early Monday morning after the game and he wanted to know why I didn’t credit Greeks for inventing Cincinnati Chili?! As a penance, and because the chili was so good, I decided to make my own. Well, I actually consulted a recipe. The result is delicious, albeit very rich. I could absolutely eat baked ziti any day of the year. But, with pastitsio, I could not eat this in the summer. I think it most likely has to do with the cinnamon and nutmeg (which just feels wintery to me) in the spice mix. So, if we have a cool, rainy, spring day, go ahead and try this now. Otherwise, I’d recommend waiting until late fall.
Pastitsio
adapted from Cook’s Illustrated
If you can’t find Kasseri cheese (available at Wegmans), sub-in a 3:1 ratio of grated Pecorino Romano and shredded Provolone.
Meat Sauce
Small onion, minced
3 garlic cloves, mince
1.25 tsp cinnamon
1 tsp dried oregano
1 tsp dried mint
1 tsp paprika
Pepper flakes
⅓ cup tomato paste
½ lb 95% lean beef
¼ cup red wine
Béchamel/Pasta
2 tbsp butter
2 tbsp AP flour
1 garlic clove, minced
¼ tsp grated nutmeg
4 cups whole milk
8 oz ziti
1 cup freshly grated Kasseri cheese
Egg, lightly beaten
Prepare the meat sauce by sautéing the onion in olive oil over medium heat in a large skillet. Once softened, add in the garlic and spices, along with a pinch of red pepper flakes, salt and freshly ground black pepper. Stir and cook until fragrant, a couple of minutes.
Stir in the tomato paste and fully incorporate, then add the beef and brown the meat, about 5 minutes. Add in the wine and deglaze the pan. Add in a half cup of water and break up the meat into small pieces with a spoon. Bring to a simmer, and cover the pan. Lower the heat and simmer for about 30 minutes, stirring occasionally.
While the meat sauce simmers, in a large pot, melt the butter over medium heat. Then, stir in the flour, garlic, and nutmeg, stirring constantly with a wooden spoon, until toasted and fragrant, about a minute. Whisk in the milk until smooth and bring the contents to a boil. Stir in the pasta for about a minute and return to a simmer. The, cover the pot and remove from the heat. Stir the pasta occasionally, over the course of 15 minutes.
Meanwhile, Adjust the oven rack to the lower third and preheat the oven to 375. Spray a 9-inch baking dish with cooking spray and reserve. Grate the cheese and reserve.
Once the pasta has softened for 15 minutes, using a spider (or slotted spoon), transfer the pasta to the base of the prepared baking dish. Sprinkle ⅓ of the cheese over the pasta and mix to combine. Press the pasta into an even layer.
Add ⅓ cup of cheese to the béchamel and whisk to combine, then whisk in the lightly beaten egg until combined. Spread the reserved meat sauce over the ziti in an even layer.
Top with the béchamel and sprinkle the remaining cheese over the top.
Place the baking dish onto a sheet pan and bake in the oven until spotty brown, about 45 mins. Remove from the oven and let it cool for about 20 minutes prior to serving.
______________________________ Copyright 2022, Brendan McCann, All Rights Reserved.
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