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Writer's pictureMangia McCann

Duck, from the Heart of Gascony

2021 Tour de France - Stage 18: Pau to Luz Ardiden


Another day in the mountains, but into a new region, from the Aquitaine to the Haute-Pyrénées. Pau is in the heart of Béarn which is in the SW region of Gascony. Mind jumbled yet? I understand. I’ve thrown out 6 regions of France which are all part of Gascony. That’s what has made this culinary ridealong fun but frenetic, trying to figure out which meal suits which distinct area on any given day. Gascony is known for their love of duck and fatty foods.


Yesterday, I used duck fat to cook the chicken. Today, I cooked a duck breast, tomorrow...well lets just say I will get into some very gluttonous stuff for the last day in Gascony. Last year, I made Chicken in a Vinegar Sauce which was nice and subtle. Today’s vinegar sauce is robust on its own, it has to be to stand up to the luxurious fattiness of the duck, but pairs ever so nicely. I served it along with some carrots and a nice regional red wine.


Sautéed Duck in Vinegar Sauce adapted from Essential Pépin, Jacques Pépin

  • 2 tbsp duck fat or cooking oil

  • Duck breast (about a pound)

  • 4 carrots, peeled and sliced ¼-inch thick

  • Butter

  • Shallot, minced

  • 2 cloves garlic, minced

  • 1/3 cup of dry red wine

  • 3 tbsp balsamic vinegar

  • 2 tbsp ketchup

  • 1 teaspoon A1 Steak Sauce

  • 1/4 cup water

  • Chives

Preheat the oven to 400. Blot dry the duck breast and, using a sharp knife, score the skin/fat. Season with kosher salt and black pepper. Let sit at room temperature, while you prepare your vegetables and other ingredients for the dish.


Once the oven has reached temperature, melt the duck fat (or heat the oil) in a small sauté pan over medium-high heat. Pace the duck skin-side down and sear for about 4-5 minutes, until the skin is browned. Flip and cook for another 2 minutes. When you flip the duck, start heating an empty cast iron skillet over high heat. When the duck has finished cooking, pour all but a tablespoon of the fat, from the sauté pan, into the cast iron skillet and place the duck in the skillet skin-side up, transferring the skillet with the duck into the oven. Cook for about 15 minutes, until the duck reaches 135. Reserve the original sauté pan with the tablespoon of duck fat.


When you transfer the duck to the oven, melt 1 tbsp butter in a clean sauté pan over medium heat. Toss in the carrots, with a dash of salt and stir to combine. Cover the pot. When steam starts to escape the pan, reduce the heat to low and continue cooking for about 15 minutes.


While the carrots finish cooking, reheat the original sauté pan, now with only a tablespoon of rendered duck fat, over medium heat. Sauté the shallot and garlic, with a pinch of salt, until fragrant, about a minute. Add in the wine and vinegar, bring to a boil, and reduce until about ½ cup is left. Whisk in the ketchup, steak sauce, and water. Return to a boil and reduce for about a minute. Reserve off heat until ready to serve.


While the sauce is finishing, the duck should be finishing cooking. Remove from the oven and allow to rest for 5-10 minutes on a cutting board.


To serve, slice the duck thinly, dividing the slices among 2 plates. Reheat the sauce, if necessary, and pour over the duck. Place the carrots on the plate and sprinkle with minced chives.

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Copyright 2021, Brendan McCann, All Rights Reserved.


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