2022 Tour de France - Stage 17: St. Gaudens to Peyragudes.
I’d be lying if I said today isn’t my favorite stage of the tour. Not necessarily, the date or the stage, or even the towns, in particular. The region overall, however, is one I always circle since my first #culinaryridealong of Le Tour. We are in cassoulet country! Technically, the riders have been within the boundaries of “cassoulet country” since they entered Carcassonne three days ago. Today’s stage-start, in St. Gaudens is just about on the Western edge of my favorite nicknamed region.
What is it about cassoulet that I love most? The slow-cooking method. Then, there’s the pork! So. much. pork; typically. That pork helps flavor an amazing broth which everything cooks in, soaking up the meaty fatty flavors. Today’s dish is from Essential Pepin. I ate it as he enjoyed growing up. However, if you feel so inclined, the traditional method is to layer the meat and beans, after all of the braising, in a casserole and bake until a crust forms at the top. Then, you press the crust down into the stewy casserole, top with some breadcrumbs, and bake until a second crust forms. That sounds amazing as well, and you can use some day-old Fougasse as the crumb topping, pulsing in a food processor into coarse crumbs (alternatively, use panko).
Duck Cassoulet from Essential Pepin, Jacquges Pépin
2 lbs dried Northern or navy beans
1 large leek (white and light green part only), halved & rinsed
Onion, peeled and studded with 2 whole cloves
Large carrot, peeled and halved
2 ripe tomatoes, peeles, seeded and chopped (or 28 oz can of diced tomato)
3 garlic cloves, peeled and smashed
1 tbsp tomato paste
2 bay leaves, few sprigs of thyme and parsley (all tied together with butcher string)
1 lb hunk of pancetta
4 cups chicken stock
~5 lb whole duck (neck and innards reserved for another use)
Boneless pork shoulder (about 3 lbs)
1.5 lbs kielbasa
Preheat the oven to 375 degrees.
Place the beans in a large pot with all of the subsequent ingredients listed up to and including the stock, along with 6 cups of water and a heavy pinch of salt. Bring to a boil over medium heat, then cover and reduce the heat to medium low and simmer for about 90 minutes, stirring a few times and ensuring the beans are submerged.
Once the beans get going, dry and season the duck and pork shoulder with kosher salt and black pepper and set both on a rack in a roasting pan. Roast for 90 minutes. Then remove and set aside to rest. Deglaze the roasting pan with ½ cup of bean liquid and stir back into the simmering beans.
Once the beans have simmered for 90 minutes, poke the kielbasa with a fork all over and place in the simmering beans. Continue to cook for another 15 minutes. Meanwhile, slice the pork shoulder in ¼-inch-thick slices.
Once the beans are tender, remove the onion, carrot, leek, herb bundle, pancetta and kielbasa from the pot. Cover the pot of beans and reduce the heat to low.
Slice the kielbasa into 1-inch chunks, and cut the pancetta into 3-inch-long, ½-inch wide lardons. Stir them back into the pot along with the sliced pork shoulder to warm through. Meanwhile, carve the duck into 6 or 8 pieces.
To serve, ladle the pork and bean mixture into bowls, top with a portion of duck and serve.
______________________________ Copyright 2022, Brendan McCann, All Rights Reserved.
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