Nearly 2 years ago, I went on my honeymoon to Italy…yes, it was that awesome that I’m still talking about it! While we had many great meals and experiences, Cibrèo in Florence is one that sticks out. It was a dining experience from the past (and that is in no way meant to be an insult). For starters, you felt like you were eating in someone’s home. Then, a floor manager came to our table, sat down with us and went over the entire menu, offering anecdotes and fielding questions. With such a disarming experience, we even got a little of her backstory and how she came to be a floor manager in Florence, having moved from New York City, just so she could work at Cibrèo. When my meal came out, mostarda-stuffed pigeon, the owner came by and sliced the bird for me. I used this opportunity to express my condolences on the passing of his father, but also got a quick tutorial on the mostarda process. Giulio directed my attention just over my right shoulder, to show me the extremely large vessel they used to age and cure the fruits in a dark slurry of juice and spices. Everything that night was classic: nothing too fussy, nothing modern whatsoever; it was pure passion on a plate. It was perfect.
I ended up following the restaurant’s Instagram, and eventually stumbled across a young chef who posted about the restaurant (thanks, algorithms!). I learned she had staged for the Picchi-legacy restaurants just after we had left. Everything she posted looked gorgeous. Her “simple” approach to food and photography struck a note so much that I ended up following her and ogling the meals she would cater. Eventually, she came out with a cookbook called Stagioni (Italian for “seasons”), and it finally was released state-side last month. I got my copy from Righton Books. I have picked out 3 recipes, at random, and will review and share my honest takes of them with you. I hope you enjoy this look-inside-the-book experience.
Braised Borlotti Beans with Salsa Verde
Borlotti con Salsa Verde, Stagioni, Oliva Cavalli
You know I love a braise. Borlotti beans are on the cover of the book, and to know a chef's quality is to know how they make beans. This recipe delivers flavorful, creamy beans and are supported by an extremely delicious salsa verde. The salsa can be used on anything. I served the remainder alongside a big steak the other day and it was phenomenal.
Beans
2 large garlic cloves
1 cup Extra-virgin olive oil (+ more for serving)
3 tomatoes, diced
~8 sage leaves (or 2 sprigs rosemary, or combination of both)
10 oz dried borlotti beans, soaked overnight (or for 8 hours)
Salsa Verde
~¾ cup parsley
~8 basil leaves
3 oil-packed anchovies
1 tsp capers, drained
¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil
1.5 tbsp red wine vinegar
Smash the garlic to remove the outer skin. Place in a dutch oven with the oil over medium heat and warm for about 8 minutes, or until the garlic is golden all over.
Add in the diced tomatoes and sage, along with a light pinch of salt, and cook until softened, about 5 minutes.
Drain the soaking beans, and add them to the pot, stirring briefly. Add 4 cups of water to the pot and bring to a rapid boil. Cook for a few minutes, then lower the heat to maintain a medium simmer. Continue to cook uncovered for 90-120 minutes, adding another cup or two of water after an hour or so and stirring occasionally.
Meanwhile, prepare the salsa verde by adding the parsley to a mini-prep. Process with eight 1-second pulses. Chop the basil and anchovies and add to the processor and pulse 5 times. Add in the capers, a pinch of salt, the oil and vinegar and run the processor for 5 seconds or so until thickened. Transfer to a jar and reserve.
Once the beans have cooked to your liking, and the liquid has thickened into a sauce, stir in some salt, a few swirls of more olive oil, and 2-3 tbsp of the salsa verde. Bring more salsa verde to the table for passing.
______________________________ Copyright 2023, Brendan McCann, All Rights Reserved.
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