Before our amazing honeymoon last fall, we had watched Searching for Italy. One of the items Stanley Tucci consumed was Roman Artichokes, a la the Jewish Ghetto. While we had a whirlwind few days after we landed in Rome, we had some extra time to explore on the back-end of our honeymoon when we ended up in Rome, two weeks later, before flying back home. We decided to stroll through the same area La Reginella was located. However, the restaurant was closed…PERMANENTLY!
My hopes were dashed of ever tasting these flaky beauties. I would forever be deprived of golden, crispy goodness and just have to eat soft artichoke hearts, or worse, sucking “meat” from a sad braised artichoke leaf. But, then I had a thought. It’s the end of Passover. Those suckers originated in the Jewish ghetto in Rome. I’m half-Italian. I know how to break down an artichoke. I know how to fry. I’ll make them myself! I did and I absolutely regret nothing. These, while taking some effort, are the best fried thing you can ever eat in your life. Trust me. Light and crispy leaves (better than any kettle-cooked potato chip), and then the base of the artichoke heart is crispy, with a soft and so-delicious interior.
While I could seemingly master this recipe, never having made it before, I am not omniscient. Megan asked me what was the inspiration for our meal (roasted lamb and fried artichokes) and I replied “Passover” (like, duh!). Then she clued me into the fact that her people don’t really use oil during Passover. I looked into this and she’s right. You can use Kosher-for-Passover oil, if you can find it. Alternatively, and how these were traditionally made, you can use olive oil during Passover and not be in violation of the chosen peoples' dogma. But, I wasn’t about to drop a bunch of money on olive oil (it’s very hard to find non extra-virgin olive oil nearby) just to fry. I simply used vegetable oil and was very pleased.
Roman Jewish Artichokes
Try to find baby artichokes as their choke is either non-existent or edible, if present. If you’re not familiar with chokes, they can be a choking hazard. Just see the photos below and follow my instructions. You’ll be safe and sound.
Lemon
Artichokes
Vegetable, Canola, or Peanut Oil
Sea salt
Fill a deep fryer or large dutch oven with oil, about 4-inches deep, and preheat to 325 degrees.
Meanwhile, fill a large bowl full of water. Slice the lemon in half, and juice it into the water. Rub your hands with the cut lemon halves and drop them into the bowl of water.
Grab an artichoke and start peeling back several layers of leaves, until the color of the base of the leaves begins to lighten. Using a paring knife, slice of the end of the stem. Looking at the sliced stem as a guide, trim away the tough outer stem until you reach the tender middle. Then slice the top half of the artichoke. Discard the trimmings and place the prepared artichoke in the bowl of lemon-water. Repeat with the remaining artichokes.
When the oil has reached temperature, drop the artichokes into the oil and fry until golden brown and beginning to crisp, about 10-15 minutes depending on size. Remove the artichokes and place on a cooling rack placed in a baking sheet. Raise the heat and bring the oil to 350 degrees.
When the artichokes have cooled slightly, gently fan out the leaves a bit and find the choke (see hair-like center photo below). Using a spoon, run around the edge of the choke (carefully, don’t poke through the bottom of the artichoke) and remove. Turn the artichoke upside down and press lightly to help the leaves fan out some more.
Place the artichokes back into the oil and finalize crisping, about 5 minutes. Remove and drain the artichokes briefly, then season with coarse sea salt. These are wonderful plain, but dipping them into an aioli would be fantastic as well.
______________________________ Copyright 2022, Brendan McCann, All Rights Reserved.
Comments